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Irvine's Hive and Honey

4/6/2018

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The buzz at Hive & Honey 

City lights and sunset views set the scene at Irvine’s first rooftop bar 
By Irvine City News staff
It’s easy to trigger arguments about the best restaurants in Irvine, especially by culinary category. Is Ootoro Sushi the best restaurant in town, or simply the best sushi? Is the city’s most outstanding steak served at Del Frisco’s Grille, or do you prefer Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse? Who has the best breakfast, S’Wich, Snooze or Stacks? Would you vote for Cha Cha’s Latin Kitchen or Puesto as your go-to modern Mexican restaurant? Is North Italia or Meizhou Dongpo the best overall dining experience in town? 

Food editors and writers love such debates, and the lists that they inspire. But one of Irvine’s “top” choices is settled, perhaps forever: The best view in Irvine is found at Hive & Honey Rooftop Bar, on the 16th floor of the new Marriott Irvine Spectrum. And it’s not even close. 

We might go so far as to say Hive & Honey has claimed the title of “Best view of any OC bar or restaurant not on the beach.” And yes, we’re including Orange Hill, which some lists inexplicably conclude has the best view and is also the county’s most romantic restaurant in OC. 

The Marriott Irvine Spectrum debuted last year, but the owners and management held off on opening of the rooftop a few months. The wait was worth it. Unless you’ve spent time in the Great Park Balloon, it’s easy to lack appreciation of Irvine’s beauty. With open-air seating on three sides of the hotel tower, one can walk to the edge and admire the gleaming urban core that is the Spectrum, especially dramatic at night.  

In other directions one can gaze at the open space and communities of Quail Hill and Shady Canyon, with the Laguna Greenbelt and Newport Coast beyond, the grand expanse of the Orange County Great Park and the peaks of Saddleback. On a clear day, Catalina, Palos Verdes and even downtown Los Angeles are visible in the distance. 

The view can be almost as good looking inward around the lounge area. The design is contemporary and on-point for an outdoor lounge, with comfortable seating, fire features and (for once) attractive heat lamps. And the crowd isn’t bad, either. Historically, Irvine hasn’t been known for having great bar scenes (though that is improving in recent years). But it’s clear that the fashionable, young and cool OC crowd will be making the rooftop their after-work headquarters. Especially once the weather warms up: it can be a tad chilly up top. All the better for cuddling, one imagines. 

Hive & Honey’s cocktail culture comes sweet, and with a sting: the signature drinks all play on the name of the locale, and most have house-made syrups in the mix. Bee’s Knees is the simplest, just Nolet’s gin, honey syrup and lemon juice. Wasp’s Nest is made with El Silencio mezcal, aperol and chipotle-honey syrup, while the Pollination is Hive & Honey’s take on a Pisco, with pamplemousse, lime wildflower honey and egg white.  

Orange County loves it’s Veuve Clicquot Champagne, but at $22 per glass it’s a pricey solo option. Perhaps there should be a California sparkling wine added to the list, or a Prosecco, even. The craft beer selection is limited, though reasonably well curated with SoCal selections that include Smog City, Barley Forge, Ritual, Karl Strauss and Belching Beaver breweries. A few more unexpected Orange County choices would be welcome, however. 

The 10-item food menu on the rooftop is limited intentionally (go to Heirloom Farmhouse Kitchen on the first floor for a fabulous full-menu experience), but the chef goes well beyond mere bar bites in concept and execution. There’s a great grass-fed burger with bits of jalapeno worked into the patty, avocado spread on the potato roll and a big hunk of honey-cured bacon speared into the top of the bun. The menu says only 25 of the $17 burgers are made a day, but so far we’ve had no problem procuring one.  

The hand-cut fries are a separate order, but well worth it. Guacamole comes two ways, either North of Tecate, which includes bits of pork belly in the mix, or South of Tecate, which comes with shrimp. The turkey meatballs in buffalo sauce with blue cheese crumbles can be addictive, as are the cornbread puffs served with Fresno peppers and honey sour cream.  
​

If all the honeys and syrups haven’t satisfied your sweet tooth, don’t miss the chef’s soon to be famous brick oven cinnamon bun, topped with butterscotch. It’s a delicious end to a night on the town: and with this new room with a view, that cliché is meant literally.  ​
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Heirloom Farmhouse Kitchen in Irvine

2/2/2018

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Heirloom offers heightened hotel dining at the Spectrum 

Perhaps the most anticipated opening in Irvine this year—and last—is the Hive & Honey rooftop lounge atop the stylish new Marriott Irvine Spectrum hotel, which opened in December. The al fresco spot will provide the best views in Irvine (we peeked) that don’t involve hiking or going up in a big Orange balloon. The space will include fire pits, lounging areas and bar seating, with a small plates menu and signature cocktails. The only problem is that it isn’t open yet.  

According to an un-scientific sampling of servers and bartenders, potential patrons have been popping into the new 271-room hotel hoping to take the elevator up to the penthouse, and have left once learning the rooftop isn’t an option. Their loss, because the lobby restaurant is available, and it’s one of our favorite new finds in Irvine. 

The full-service dining spot is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Its full name is Heirloom Farmhouse Kitchen, which we find hard to remember. Especially since it seems like a branding exercise designed to capture a trio of trendy dining words in one moniker. It could have just as easily been called Sustainable Farm-to-Table Locavore Lounge, or something. The name notwithstanding, Heirloom is a memorable new addition to the Irvine dining scene. 

The interior is beautiful, with bright natural light and an open and airy indoor/outdoor design that flows well from the lobby to the swimming pool. The overall design aesthetic of the hotel is described as “elevated farmhouse,” and is intended to pay homage to the heritage of the Irvine Ranch. This mission is accomplished in a sophisticated, yet comfortable setting, with high ceilings, handsome wood accents and an inviting indoor/outdoor bar.  

It’s all amplified by a touch of whimsy in the art of Paul Bond of Laguna Beach, including a pastoral view of a Saddleback Valley orchard and field complete with a slightly surrealistic giant bee, and large oranges falling from the sky. 

When so much hotel art is designed not to offend, or even be noticed, the choice of Bond displays an innovative and creative touch from Marriott that’s on display throughout the hotel. 

The restaurant’s menu has a similarly confident and creative touch, thanks to Chef Paolo Buffa, a native of Italy. It features produce and meat from California farms with names familiar to foodies, such as Manassero, Brandt and Weiser. 

It’s instantly one of the best places to have breakfast in the Spectrum area, joining the casual S’wich Bistro and the daily bakery and weekend brunch at Habana.  

The choices at lunch and dinner include six large plates, each offering Euro-California takes on favorites such as braised pork shank, rack of lamb and salmon. At lunch, the Heirloom Burger and the Bahn Mi sandwich are standouts, with the latter a carnivore’s delight, featuring Black Forest ham and roasted pork belly. 

The chef doesn’t skimp on the greens and veggies, either. Small plates include an amazing Mac-n-Cheese made with cauliflower and bacon, all drenched in a delicious and decadent fiscallini cheddar fondue. Roasted Myrna potatoes are prepared with charred leeks and broccolini, accented with a smoked Romesco sauce.
Living kale salad, charred 
nopales, honeycomb cabbage and red kuri squash soup are a few of the varied vegetable choices.  

The bar offers a nice selection of craft cocktails, including one called “Master-Planned Perfection.” The draft beer list is local, including choices from OC-based Evans, Towne Park and Left Coast brewers, and the limited wine list offers a decent selection. 

Perhaps most impressive about the new restaurant is the ubiquitous presence of the chef. After dining at Heirloom numerous times, morning, noon and night, Buffa has never failed to make an appearance, chatting with diners and greeting regulars with a signature Italian charm.  

One quibble about the experience is (you guessed it) the parking. It’s valet only, and the restaurant validation only saves diners $10 on the $20-for-two-hours charge. That doesn’t compare well to local competitors like Hotel Irvine, where valet is complimentary when visiting EATS Kitchen & Bar and/or Red Bar and Lounge, or even the luxurious Resort at Pelican Hill, where valet is also free.  
​

7905 Irvine Center Dr. 949.759.0200 ​
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Irvine's Best Restaurants

12/28/2017

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Best of Irvine Restaurants 

By Irvine City News staff
It’s one of the questions that we’re asked most: What are the best restaurants in Irvine? Our answer is that... it depends.  

A cop-out, we know. But not everyone wants cutting-edge cuisine. Some want the comfort of familiar food, others eclectic global dishes. Many seek family-friendly options or best spots when on a budget.  

Irvine City News staff writers will provide our list in a future issue, but for now we’ve culled through critic’s picks and online popularity contests from several sources for a selection of local restaurants named “best” by critics or the crowd. 
 
Nextdoor favorites 
Popular online social network Nextdoor.com recently launched its Neighborhood Favorites, “an annual awards program that allows neighbors to recommend and recognize the most-loved businesses in and around their neighborhood.”  

Here are winners from the Irvine area announced in November 2017. 
 
PIZZA PLACE 
Northwood Pizza 
4900 Irvine Blvd. 

First Class Pizza 
6420 Irvine Blvd. 

Square One Pizza 
5789 Alton Pkwy. 
 
BURGERS 
In-N-Out Burger 
4115 Campus Dr. 

Habit Restaurants 
14474 Culver Dr. 

The Counter 
6416 Irvine Blvd. 
 
MEXICAN 
Taco Rosa 
13792 Jamboree Rd. 

Super Mex 
14370 Culver Dr. 

Javier’s Restaurant  
536 Spectrum Center Dr. 
 
BREAKFAST & BRUNCH 
Stacks Pancake House 
14421 Culver Dr. 

Mimi’s Cafe 
4030 Barranca Pkwy. Irvine 
 
ITALIAN 
North Italia 
2957 Michelson Dr. 

CUCINA enoteca Irvine 
532 Spectrum Center Dr.

Square One Pizza 
5789 Alton Pkwy. 
 
BAKERY 
French’s Bakery 
14443 Culver Dr. 

85C Bakery Cafe - Irvine 
2700 Alton Pkwy. 

Champagne French Bakery 
4628 Barranca Pkwy. 
 
CHINESE 
P.F. Chang’s 
514 Spectrum Center Dr. 

Sam Woo Restaurant 
15333 Culver Dr. 

Capital Seafood Restaurant - Irvine Alton 
2700 Alton Pkwy. 
 
AMERICAN 
Urban Plates 
13380 Jamboree Rd. 

Lazy Dog Restaurant & Bar 
13290 Jamboree Rd. 

California Fish Grill Inc 
3988 Barranca Pkwy. 
 
ICE CREAM SHOP 
Stricklands Ice Cream 
4523 Campus Dr. 

Yogurtland 
13260 Jamboree Rd. 

Creamistry 
3972 Barranca Pkwy. 
 
BAR/PUB 
Bj’s Restaurant 
13130 Jamboree Rd. 

Lazy Dog Restaurant & Bar 
13290 Jamboree Rd. 

TAPS Fish House & Brewery 
13390 Jamboree Rd. 
 
STEAK HOUSE 
Ruth’s Chris Steak House 
2961 Michelson Dr. 

Houston’s Restaurant 
2991 Michelson Dr. 
 
BARBECUE 
Wood Ranch BBQ & Grill 
57 Fortune Dr. 

Lucille’s Smokehouse Barbeque 
23760 El Toro Rd. 

Famous Dave’s BBQ 
13122 Jamboree Rd. 
 
OC Register Bests  
In September, the results of OC Register’s Best of Orange County 2017 reader vote named Square One Pizza Café in Irvine for having OC’s best pizza, best happy hour and being the best family friendly restaurant. Other local restaurants that did well in the Best of OC voting include: 

Best Sunday Brunch
#1 Taps Fish House & Brewery
 
13390 Jamboree Rd.  

Best Burger
#2 The Cut Handcrafted Burgers
 
3831 Alton Pkwy.  

Best Steakhouse
#3 Ruth’s Chris Steak House
 
2961 Michelson Dr. 

The Register’s award-winning restaurant critic Brad Johnson includes North Italia and Angelina’s Pizzeria Napoletana on his list of best pizza in the county. 

Brad Johnson’s authoritative list of the 75 best places to eat in OC included these Irvine restaurants: 
19. Ootoro Sushi  
 2222 Michelson Dr.  

23. Bistango 
19100 Von Karman Ave. 

44. North Italia 
2957 Michelson Dr. 
 
OC Weekly Best of OC  
Critics and food writers for the alternative weekly included several Irvine restaurants among their 2017 favorites. 
 
BEST DESSERT 
Zov’s 
“It’s OC dining royalty, of course, but way underrated for its desserts, especially at its Irvine location.” 
3915 Portola Pkwy. 
 
BEST CHINESE  RESTAURANT 
Best Foods 
“The sweetbread soup is the best offal dish in Orange County: earthy and milky and delicious.” 
2626 Dupont Dr. 
 
BEST MARGARITA 
Taco Rosa 
“Whether sipping with a gourmet Mexi meal or imbibing during happy hour, Taco Rosa’s slew of margaritas are perfect for whatever the occasion.”  
13792 Jamboree Rd. 
 
BEST KOREAN BARBECUE 

Kang Ho-dong Baekjeong  
“Meats are top-notch, and those grills with the built-in side troughs are a work of genius.” 
14160 Culver Dr. 
 
BEST VEGAN RESTAURANT 
Butterleaf at TRADE Food Hall 
“Vegetarian and vegan cuisine should taste as good as any other, and Butterleaf’s mission is to prove it.”  
2222 Michelson Dr. 
 
BEST FARMERS MARKET 
Irvine Farmers Market 
“With one of the most comprehensive and varied collections of food retailers in SoCal, it’s easy to spend a couple of hours on a Saturday in the Mariners Church parking lot.” 
5001 Newport Coast Dr. ​
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Irvine welcomes Habana

12/1/2017

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Habana, Part I: Pastries in a soon-to-be signature pink box ​

The long-awaited new spectrum restaurant includes an amazing bakery sure to be an a.m. Irvine must ​
Picture
A SELECTION OF PASTRIES AND A CAFE CUBANO
By Irvine City News Staff
In one of our early issues, May 2016 to be exact, we ran a feature called “The Summer Eat Sheet: Irvine’s Top 10 New Restaurants.” On it we listed then much-anticipated spots that included Puesto, Kona Grill, Angelina’s Pizzeria Napoletana, Adya and Meizhou Dongpo. All are open, though several took longer than expected. 

The last on that list to open is Habana. We said it would debut summer of 2016. OK, so we were a bit off on its opening date, which turned out to be November of this year. Finally! Well, the wait was worth it, though the owners who had to pay rent to everyone’s favorite local landlord during the 16-month delay might wonder.  

Irvine City News will review the full-service, sit-down aspects of the stunningly designed and intricately detailed restaurant in a future issue, as will every other Orange County publication that covers restaurants. We need to take time to get to know the lunch and dinner menu and let the staff and kitchen get comfortable and work out any opening issues. 

Our first look instead is focused on the brand-new bakery, a key part of Habana whole.  

Whether it’s a pre-office hours meeting, a quick bite and coffee or a more leisurely pace in the morning, many of us depend on and love a morning repast. Because where does one get breakfast at the Spectrum Center? There are the chains, of course, including Corner Bakery, the eBar outside Nordstrom, Ruby’s, Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf and a Starbucks.  

Nearby there’s not much more. We like S’wich Bistro across from Blizzard HQ, and Whole Foods grab-and-go breakfast has its place in our morning rituals. 

But there’s certainly nothing in Irvine that compares with the Habana experience. The bakery opens at 7 a.m., and that early hour is key. Starting weekday breakfast service at 8 or 9 a.m. is not enough. We hope Habana sticks to the early hours and allows its morning audience to grow, which we believe it will. 

For those who know the Spectrum to be a parking nightmare, especially with the construction ongoing, at this early hour it’s nirvana. The bakery has its own entrance on the 5 Freeway side of the center. Park anywhere, walk in and one is transported to an experience both classic and contemporary. 

The entrance patio and one just beyond the bakery are beautiful. Palm trees, tropical tile and vintage-looking furniture make the area an Instagram-appropriate setting. The bakery café itself has high ceilings and beautiful light streaming in through large windows and open doors.  

The space is stocked with a beautifully curated selection of goods more usually found in Miami, from Cuban chocolate, candies and snacks to Latin American sodas and bottles of Spanish wine. There are newspapers for sale, which of course we heartily endorse, and the design includes two vintage televisions showing loops of old-school sports stars and celebrities, including Roberto Clemente and Carmen Miranda. 

There’s selection of coffees, including café Cubano and café con leche, and an entire case filled with lovely house-made pastries, including some that I’m told are Cuban delicacies. The fruit tarts and passion fruit croissants are early favorites among the many sweet bites sampled do far. But when it comes to breakfast, we prefer more of a savory dish. 

Habana does not disappoint, with a selection of several rich and satisfying dishes, including a breakfast sandwich with roast pork called Medio Dia; a delicious version of the hipster dish du jour, avocado toast; and the Ropa Hash Bowl, which is made with Habana’s signature ropa vieja stewed beef, along with an egg, red pepper Hollandaise and potato hash. This menu also includes a decadent French toast a la Habana: cornflake crusted brioche soaked in rum custard, served with guava jam and coconut syrup. 

We do wish they’d add a few veggie-friendly choices to the menu. The Cazuelita de Mi Abuela is delicious, but the rustic dish is a bit bread-heavy for those looking for something light. 

It’s fast-casual ordering, but the service was prompt, friendly and extremely knowledgeable. The hot dishes are eat-in only, with the exception of the breakfast sandwich, while the coffee and pastries can also be ordered to go. 

One of the smartest things the owners of Habana did was design a lovely to-go box for the pastries. It’s a gorgeous rose gold color, and has a Habana logo in metallic script prominently set upon it.  
​

We fully expect a box of goodies from the new morning star to be the new trend for what the stylish and savvy co-worker brings to share at office or the hostess gift to bring to the garden party.  ​​
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The Cut

10/29/2017

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The Cut-ting edge 

New full-service hamburger spot The Cut meets the need for creative culinary spaces in the city ​
By Irvine City News staff
A few issues back we bemoaned the fact that Irvine has missed out on the gourmet burger, craft beer and artisan cocktail craze that has overtaken other young, tech-centric cities around the U.S. We have dozens of fast-casual concepts offering DIY burgers, pizza, burritos and Middle Eastern bowls, but we’re lacking in chef-driven, sit-down restaurants with modern, cool design and contemporary dishes.  

That’s one reason we’re so pleasantly surprised by The Cut, a restaurant that recently opened at Westpark Plaza, at Alton Parkway and Culver Drive; surprised because when we read that a popular gourmet food truck was debuting its first brick-and-mortar location, we were expecting the typical fast casual environment. Au contraire. The new restaurant is definitely (you can see this coming, right?) a cut above that Irvine norm. 

We’re so used to lining up to order that the smiling host ready to seat us came as a surprise. It was before 5 p.m., but the place was buzzing. A large table of twenty-something co-workers filled up one corner, and there wasn’t a seat available at the bar. We raised the average age at the restaurant by a few when we entered; this is definitely a favorite with young, cool, diverse and tattooed set. 

And that’s something to celebrate. The city’s economy depends on attracting and retaining STEM- and knowledge-based companies that compete with Austin, Portland and the Bay Area for skilled employees. “We want to invest in a community where our employees will enjoy living, recreational opportunities, educational opportunities, and an overall high quality of life,” is a line from the Amazon HQ2 RFP.  

On our visits to The Cut, we saw young people enjoying life. Especially during happy hour when the discounts and deals, combined with the cool bar ambience, make this an afternoon and after-work choice for Irvine’s creative class. We’re not saying it’s hipster heaven, but there may be more tattoos per square inch of skin at The Cut than any other Irvine restaurant. 

You’ll likely see Blizzard game designers clad in vintage WoW t-shirts sipping $4 blonde ale beers from Bottle Logic bar (all beers are $2 off from 3-6 p.m.) next to UCI grad students and bearded Instagram influencers scarfing down cheesy tots ($5) and perfectly seared shishito peppers ($4). For non-happy hour prices add $3.
 
 
While The Cut has a great selection of small plates and starters, an impressive wine selection for a place of its size, and plenty of craft beers to choose from, you’re really there for the burgers. 

Created by Chef Andres Dangond, the hamburgers here check all the boxes: natural, certified humane, free range, hormone and antibiotic free. The hamburger is ground at the restaurant from cuts of Angus beef (brisket and chuck), and is handcrafted to order, from scratch. Choices range from the simple Original, with cheese, pickles and Cut sauce, to the more creative Columbian (smoked mozzarella, chimichurri and roasted bananas) and Truffle & Brie varieties. 

The burgers aren’t of the gigantic, hard-to-fit-in-your-mouth variety. They tend to be juicy/saucy, which is why we appreciate the substantial bun the burgers are served on. The most expensive burger is the Grand Cut at $16: braised pork and bacon jam with the signature Angus brisket and chuck patty. Add an egg on top for $2 more. 

If you are morally or fiscally opposed to paying two-figure prices for a hamburger, you’re in luck at happy hour, when there’s a simple and delicious cheeseburger offered for $7. 

For those used to an almost limitless variety of mix-and-match toppings, The Cut’s eight or so burger choices may seem limited. In fact, the menu includes a note that “strongly encourages you to enjoy what we’ve created for you without modifications.” We’re fine with that. Sometimes we want a chef to decide what flavors work together. That’s their job. 

The chef at The Cut does that job well. With the exception of a bland chopped salad, we’ve enjoyed every dish, including the fries, which are fresh cut and twice fried; the desserts, which include a creative corn cookie ice cream sandwich; and the $7 kids menu, which includes a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream beautifully presented, sitting proudly on its own plate. 
 
thecuthcb.com 
 ​

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Cha Cha's Latin Kitchen

9/25/2017

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New mex in the mix! 

Cha Cha’s Latin Kitchen brings a fun and flavorful experience to the Irvine marketplace ​
By Irvine City News staff
The diversity of Irvine’s restaurants has improved exponentially in recent years, with the most impactful advances centered on the innovative and authentic Asian cuisine scene. Plus, we’ve had dozens of fast-casual hamburger and quick-bake pizza spots open, and several close. 

But fans of modern Mexican cuisine have missed out, as the dining trend has mainly passed Irvine by—until now, that is. Javier’s at the Spectrum was the pioneer. Then Puesto opened at Los Olivos Marketplace offering innovative tacos and tasty cocktails in an open and high-ceilinged setting. A second Puesto location was soon announced, coming soon to the AC Hotel in Park Place. 

Last April we learned that Cha Cha’s Latin Kitchen would add a second location at the Market Place. For seven years Cha Cha’s has been a hit in downtown Brea, a block or so from TAPS Fish House and Brewery. Or so we heard. Brea is one of those OC cities we find it hard to get to, so we don’t really try. 

Luckily, the best of Brea has come to Irvine. First, TAPS made the move, opening at Market Place in 2015, replacing Buca de Beppo in a nicely re-imagined space. And now Cha Cha’s has migrated south as well, replacing the IHOP at the center.  

One thing all these new restaurants have in common is major improvement in the interior design. While each is different, what they have in common is major renovations of their existing spaces, well beyond what Irvine diners have come to expect. We probably have North Italia and TAPS to thank.  

We heard that TAPS owner Joe Manzella drove a hard bargain with his landlord, insisting on an expanded footprint and extensive improvements to the old Buca space before he’d accept a long-standing invitation to move to an Irvine Company center. 

And North Italia raised the bar as far as contemporary, open design goes in the city, setting the stage for the look and feel of Cha Cha’s Latin Kitchen.  
​
We love the way the patio, bar and dining room all connect at the new restaurant. During the summer heat wave it was almost too much indoor/outdoor ambience, as the air conditioning fought hard to keep up with the heat flowing through the large, retractable windows. But we decided to grin and bear it, imagining we were in a sweltering Cabo San Lucas resort. Ordering a sampling of the Cha Cha’s famously delicious Margaritas helped in that endeavor. 

Our only quibble with the design is outside. The parking can be a challenge, thanks in part to the popularity of BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse. So we park on the patio side of Cha Cha’s. But there’s a badly landscaped median right where there should be a pathway to the restaurant, forcing folks to walk through the parking lot instead of directly to the entrance. Someone should fix that. 

So how’s the food? As a friend always says, you can’t eat the ambience. So far, we’ve been satisfied with the dishes we’ve tried, but not yet blown away. 

The guacamole is good, bordering on great. The wood-fired queso fundido served over roasted potatoes should be illegal, as addictive as it is. The tacos are tasty (we preferred the short rib, the carnitas and the mushroom varieties).  

We ordered the chicken flautas off of the appetizer list, mainly for the photogenic mango-habanero salsa that tops it—what, you never order a dish just for its Instagram appeal? The dish itself was disappointing, with a mushy texture hiding beneath the crispy exterior. 

We’d include the short rib enchiladas, served open-faced with the meat braised in Guajillo chile, on our list of best entrees at the restaurant, as would the carne asada and the carnitas.  

On Tuesdays, Cha Cha’s offers 50 percent off on tacos and premium tequilas, starting at 4 p.m. until close. And there are daily Happy Hour deals (4-6 p.m. on weekdays; plus 10 P.M. to close on Friday and Saturday), including $2 off appetizers and $1 off beer and wine by the glass. Alas, the beer list is a bit short on craft offerings, especially from Mexico. And the wine list doesn’t venture into the Guadalupe Valley at all. 

Puesto’s beer and wine list is better than Cha Cha’s Latin Kitchen as far as artisan options, though we’ll have to study and compare the Margaritas at each more closely to choose an overall winner in Irvine’s emerging modern Mexican cuisine category.  
 
chachaslatinkitchen.com ​
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Fatty Tuna in Irvine

8/25/2017

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Fresh fish find

Fatty Tuna at park place center offers entry-level omakase experience in a cool, contemporary setting
By Irvine City News staff
When in the hands of an expert sushi chef, saying “omakase” is the best way to experience the skill of the chef and the restaurant’s cuisine. By doing so one is giving the chef creative license to prepare whatever he or she desires, based on what fish is freshest. Ordering the omakase menu tells the chef that you trust them enough to eat whatever is presented.  
​

One of the expected experiences of omakase at high-end sushi restaurants is the anticipation of the unexpected, where one is certain to experience something unique and sublime: fish one may have never heard of, prepared in artistic ways one may have never seen before, presented from the hands of the chef himself. And watching the chefs prepare the unique bites is a key part of the experience. 

That’s not part of the plan at Fatty Tuna, the cool, new sushi spot in Irvine’s Park Place. That’s because each of three omakase “sets” are described completely on the menu, so one knows the nigiri, sushi and hand rolls one will receive on a given day or night.  

That’s okay, we guess. Irvine omakase purists with deep pockets will be over at Ootoro Sushi, anyway, ordering the $30-$300 menu we at Irvine City News called “Irvine’s best serious sushi restaurant” in a review a year ago. 

What Fatty Tuna provides is a perfect transition experience for those moving on from California rolls and other crazy sushi-like experiences, but not quite ready and willing to dive deep into a true (and truly expensive) omakase experience, such as offered at Ootoro. 

Co-owners Wonny Lee and Hugh Pham are behind the new hot spot. Pham is an owner of popular sandwich spot The Kroft at The District and Anaheim Packing House, while Lee has a diverse culinary résumé that includes The Bazaar and Hamazsaku in L.A. and Hamamori and Marché Moderne in Orange County. They brought in sushi Chef Randy Fukushima, who has worked at Wasa Sushi, among other SoCal locales. 

Fatty Tuna is a gorgeous restaurant. It’s a small space, done in a monochromatic white that we love. It feels fresh and clean, a well-lighted place with an exceptionally pleasing modern aesthetic.  

The sets of sushi are priced at $20, $30, and $42. We ordered set B on our first visit. It included edamame, tuna sashimi, salmon nigiri, albacore, yellow tail, shrimp nigiri, unagi nigiri, blue crab hand roll and fatty tuna hand roll. We’ve also had the scallop special, which was particularly good. On another occasion we added a vegetarian set to our order for $28, which was very good, with beautiful presentation. Our server said it may be coming off the menu, though, as the preparation of the veggies is so precise only an owner and one chef can do it.  

There are also a la carte offerings on the menu: one doesn’t have to commit to an omakase set to experience the restaurant. 

Fatty Tuna is located a couple of doors down from Lemonade, with all those salads available, so vegans and vegetarians have the choice of going there, or Mother’s Market or even ordering the veggie burger from The Counter. Some would ask why would a vegan or vegetarian go for sushi, anyway. But these days it seems there’s at least one in every group. Here’s a hint: meat and fish-lovers, don’t let your dining-out friends watch the documentary “What the Health.” It’s scary good. 

We’ve heard and read a lot comparing Fatty Tuna to Sugarfish, a trendy sushi spot in L.A. and NYC. We haven’t been, so can’t say if the comparisons are apt. But we’d say The New York Times review of the NYC Sugarfish applies equally to Fatty Tuna: the selection of fish “rarely rises above entry level.”  

At Fatty Tuna, you’re not going to be served something unusual, like shimaaji or tachiuo. Nothing will still be moving as it arrives at your table. Which is why Fatty Tuna is perfect for a business lunch or dinner date where one wants to play it reasonably safe, while still enjoying something delicious, fresh and traditional.  
 
fattytunasushi.com 
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TRADE Food Hall in Irvine

7/31/2017

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Food hall fun

TRADE is the place for instagram-friendly foodies, craft cocktail tasters and see-and-be-seen millennials
By Irvine City News staff
There are no bars in Irvine. Did you ever notice that? Sure, there are restaurants that have lounges and cool cocktail menus. You can get a drink at the bar at Whole Foods, Wahoo’s, and UCI. And our hotels have hot spots like YNK at the Irvine Marriott and the Red Bar & Lounge at Hotel Irvine. But show me the stand-alone bar in town that’s not also a bona fide eating-place, as defined by the ABC.  

We’re not sure why Irvine doesn’t have any old bars. We assume like most things in the city it’s connected to whims over the years of the former Irvine Ranch and the Irvine Co. It’s too bad; we love a dive bar that’s found renewed favor with subsequent generations because of its authentic “cool” factor. Where is our Beach Ball, The Fling, Sandpiper, Stag Bar, The Swinging Door or Swallow’s Inn? 

So what does this have to do with TRADE Food Hall, the new hot spot in the IBC that features several different food stalls in a moderately sized indoor/outdoor space? It’s because the best thing about TRADE is the aptly named Center Hub bar that forms the core of the TRADE experience. Without it, the place would just be a glorified food court. With it, TRADE is one of the most important centers of the next generation of contemporary, cool Irvine. 

As an old friend used to say: Nightlife is culture, too. When one travels abroad and returns home, we rave about the restaurants and museums, of course. But think of how often you’ve regaled friends and family about the little pub or bistro you discovered hidden down a side street in a distant city, or the palapa on the sand serving ice-cold cerveza that became the highlight of your trip. That’s because bars so often serve as community centers in cultural cities, those “third places” that are neither work nor home.  

The great thing about a place like TRADE is that at its core it is a social place. It’s easy to gather with friends and linger there. While solo diners are welcome, even they are part of the social experience of sharing space in a public place. 

Because everyone goes off to order separately, there are no issues with splitting bills, no worrying about picky eaters or differing personal policies about tipping. 

At a table service or fast casual restaurant, you’re on the clock. There’s a social contract with the server that you’ll enjoy your meal and then move on so another party can be seated. 

So while much attention is focused on the food at Orange County’s new collection of food halls that includes Anaheim’s Packing House, 4th Street Market in Santa Ana, Union Market in Tustin, and TRADE in Irvine, it’s the beer, wine and cocktail culture there and at Center Hub that makes the experience exceptional.  

And there is food, of course. Current vendors include Pig Pen Delicacy, Dos Chinos, Sweet Combforts, Gyro King, Butterleaf, Two Birds, Portside and Megadon. The best are probably Butterleaf for vegan and vegetarian options, Two Birds for amazing pieces of artisan chicken, served separately or as sandwiches, grilled or fried. We also enjoy Gyro King, the one holdover from the previous food court at the same location. 

The entire strip center is evolving into one of Irvine’s dining destinations with HiroNori Craft Ramen, Krisp Fresh Living and sublime sushi at Ootoro. 
​

The center at Michelson and Bixby includes an IBC rarity: free parking. There is a premium on finding a spot during the lunch rush, but we wouldn’t know as we generally walk over, as should you. 
 
tradefoodhall.com
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Two Left Forks, Quail Hill in Irvine

7/1/2017

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Cool enough for Quail Hill?

​Two Left Forks is old-school dining done well
By Irvine City News staff
A rule of criticism I read years ago seems simple, but in practice can be hard to follow: evaluate a book, film, restaurant or work of art on what it is, and not what you hoped it would be. If you can’t, at least make your biases clear, so that someone who likes what you don’t like can evaluate if your “thumbs down” makes it a likely “thumbs up” for them.
​
In the case of Two Left Forks in Quail Hill, I will come clean: we were hoping that empty space where Jade Kitchen used to be would be taken by a cool, foodie-forward gastropub with a happening bar. There would be a creative list of somewhat affordable small plates along with interesting entrees that would reveal the chef’s forward-thinking flare and understanding of cool culinary trends. Maybe it would be the first brick and mortar location of a popular food truck, or the first OC location of a popular San Diego or L.A. concept.

The interior would be chic, industrial and modern. The crowd would include hipsters, cool kids from Blizzard, chic couples from Shady Canyon and “worth-the-drive” foodies making the trek to the quiet corner of Irvine from around the county because the buzz about the food was so strong.

Two Left Forks is few of those things, and that’s perfectly fine. No doubt many Irvine diners will revel in the fact that this new restaurant does a contemporary take on old-school dining so well.

The first old-school clue is the art on the wall: a lovely painting of a young woman waiting at the bar with a glass of wine, that sort of thing. They’re a bit reminiscent of the art that used to hang at The Ritz Restaurant, the original one in Newport Center.

The second is the food, which includes many old-school favorites that one could have found on many 1990s-era menus: Artichoke dip. Caesar Salad. Rack of Lamb. Crab Stack. Chilean Sea Bass. There are a few notes of multicultural fusion mixed in: tataki, chimichurri, and such. It’s not cheap, but not outrageous for full service done well. Shared plate appetizers range from $10-$15, with entrees $15 to $30.

This isn’t challenging fare; no culinary ground is being broken. We don’t expect it to be an Instagram darling among the millennials.

Again, revealing our bias: we like to be challenged. We wish Irvine had a great gastropub, and that the Quail Hill Shopping Center had one. But those with tastes like ours have Diamond Jamboree, and the several new, cool spots that have debuted in recent months and years at Los Olivos, Heritage Plaza, the Spectrum and University Center. We should be, if not satisfied, then thankful at the evolving Irvine culinary scene.

The food is fresh, nicely presented, business lunch or date-night fare. It’s fine dining comfort food, without the side of irony so often served at those gastropubs mentioned above. And it’s all presented with friendly professionalism by a clean-cut crew of young adults, without a hipster beard or ostentatious tattoo among them (that we noticed, at least).

Two Left Forks is good news for those who take to message boards like NextDoor to complain as traditional “American” restaurants have closed in recent years, replaced by hot spots like Meizhou Dongpo, EMC Seafood and Kang Ho-Dong Baekjeong. Don’t get us wrong, Two Left Forks is certainly not a Marie Callender’s or Denny’s, as far as prices and menu choices go, thankfully. Think of it as more like the Elephant Bar, but for a new era.
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Chinese Cuisines in Irvine

6/1/2017

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Chinese supper

By Irvine City News staff
There’s this thing some restaurant critics do to impress readers with their expertise in the type of cuisine being reviewed. They’ll name drop famous chefs and restaurants where they’ve tried similar cuisine, casually mention their extensive travels to the culinary nation of origin, or mention how their own cultural heritage includes a childhood familiarity with the food.

Well, we’re going to ’fess up. We are far from expert when it comes to authentic Chinese cuisine. We’re fans of Capital Seafood at the Spectrum and love Din Tai Fung at South Coast Plaza, and aren’t ashamed to admit affection for P.F. Chang’s. But we’ll freely admit to being intimidated by the scene at what many say is Irvine’s best, most authentic Chinese restaurant, Chong Qing Mei Wei Szechuan. On our few visits there we’ve felt out of place and a bit unwelcome, finding little patience shown to those still new to the nuances of the menu, and without a word of the language beyond hello.

And you know, we’re okay with that. We love living in a city so diverse that there are experiences that come easily only to those who speak the language or are from the culture involved, or those who take the time to learn enough to show respect for it.

Which brings us to Irvine’s newest, grandest and most beautiful Chinese restaurant, Meizhou Dongpo, at Culver Plaza. Oh, let’s not quibble. This is one of the most well-appointed and lovely restaurants of any kind in the city.

If you, like us, have wondered where all the young and wealthy Chinese émigrés paying millions in cash for Irvine houses hang out, wonder no longer.

On our several visits to the Irvine Meizhou Dongpo (it’s one of 120 locations across China, as well as L.A. and Las Vegas), we’ve seen more luxury brands worn by guests at the restaurant than any place this side of Chanel or Dior at South Coast Plaza. This may be the best-dressed crowd in all of Irvine, and it’s also a place that clearly welcomes families, as we’ve seen large groups happily enjoying the many choices on the large menu.

We’ll leave opinions about the authenticity of that menu to those more expert, but we can speak to its accessibility. Every dish listed has a photograph, and its name listed in English as well as Chinese. We found the same accessibility in the service. The servers and their managers have been attentive, fast, friendly, and fully fluent in English, as well as Mandarin, Cantonese, Shanghainese and other dialects, or so our Chinese-proficient friends inform us.

All the dishes we’ve tried have been delicious, from the simplest noodle, vegetable and dumpling dishes to the signature roast duck. Watching chefs prepare the duck behind the glass of the stunning display kitchen is not to be missed. The vegetable sides like pea sprouts and string beans have been a hit with vegetarians and meat eaters alike. We’re in love with the simple avocado with roasted chili appetizer dish: it’s instantly one of our favorite ways to eat avocado, and we’re sort of addicted to it. We haven’t been terribly adventurous with the menu, though we did share the Royal Hot Pot, which our dinner partner ordered on the spicy side. Once our mouths went totally numb, we enjoyed the endorphin-inducing experience.
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Meizhou Dongpo is on the pricey side, but one can also order a few sides and appetizers to share so as to experience the fine dining restaurant at a comparative bargain, and be richer for the experience.
 
15363 Culver Dr., 949.433.5686
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